Comic Con Africa is around the corner, taking place at the end of this month at the Johannesburg Expo Centre. Meanwhile, in San Diego, California the OG Comic Con took place in July, and that’s where Shaka iLembe costume designer Sheli Masondo found herself last month.

Championing African costume design at the international convention, she was part of a panel of creatives for More Than Capes: Costume Creates Character, presented by the International Society of Black Costume Designers (ISBCD). Her spot on the panel was well-earned. Her work on Shaka iLembe has been nothing short of magnificent, but she brings with her years of experience and expertise, having also worked on productions like Zulu Wedding, Genesis, Adulting, Trackers, and Black is King.

Mesmerised every week by her intricate and deeply-considered costumes that bring history and characters alive, it was high time we popped her a few pertinent questions about her work and, of course, Shaka iLembe.

What kind of fabrics did you use for Shaka iLembe and where did you source them from?

We use natural or organic materials closely associated with those used in the era of the story, we use goat and nguni hide, leather, wood, bone, horns, feathers, grass, tree bark, 100% hand woven cotton, brass. Our suppliers range from tanners in Pietermaeitzburg to Krugersdorp, handpicked woods and grass.

How much room do you have to be creative in such a historical show?

Since there are a number of characters whose clothing is not well described in history, reading material, or oral search, we had to maintain traditional silhouettes, textures, and culturally relatable elements while adding creative freedom so the modern viewer could relate.

What was the most challenging costume to source/create for Shaka iLembe?

Every single piece had its share of challenges as materials and costume crafting techniques were not readily available. We had to find different sets of skills for every single layer you see on a single character. For example, King Zwide ka Langa, three different crafters created the headgear alone, on his body four different crafters created his gear.

Which costume took the longest to make?

The capes: Ntombazi and Queen Nandi’s capes. Ntombazi’s season 2 cape took three months to craft, Nandi's took five months. This does not include the trial and error period, which involved a lot of sewing and unpicking.

What were the most common wardrobe mishaps you had to deal with?

Besides gently taking every new actor on set through the costume’s historical identity and the reason why they have to wear a G-string, the cast need to be physically dressed by more than one costume person due to multiple layers and strings that keep the costumes on.

If you could keep any item from Shaka iLembe, what would it be?

I would say the entire collection from Queen Ntombazi. Okay, you said one, so I'd settle for the oxtail draping choker.

Tell us more about working with the directors, writers, and actors when it comes to designing and fitting the costumes.

First and foremost I must commend the actors, all of them. The trust they all had in me and the process is remarkable. I mean, I recall Dawn Thandeka in one of many similar occasions when she said, with every single layer I placed on her, she felt the spirit of the character settling in.

The collaboration between costume, production design, hair and makeup was also tight and smooth. I mean, there was always pieces of hair landing on the costume table so we could complete the design with beadwork.

There was a cultural advisor as well to pull us back if we were going overboard with creative license.

How do the costumes reflect the characters and their journeys?

The highlight of costumes reflecting the characters’ journeys in season 2 for me is Queen Ntombazi. Ubuthakathi was elevated and shown in our screens. With every king she had killed she utilised the remainder of some body parts and created costume pieces, for example the ribcage she wore in episode 6.

Which movie or TV show’s costumes do you absolutely love?

Game of Thrones is still my fave.

What’s more challenging: designing a wedding or a historical period?

Hahahaha 🤩 Both are challenging in different ways. Historical period's first challenge is fear. This is a monumental task, chronicling the lineage of a nation with respect and accuracy was a blue print in my approach.

White weddings are easy. I can do them in my sleep. A challenge may come in scenarios where a director changes their mind last minute on set or at 2am when the call time is 5am and the wedding is the first scene of the day.

What do you love about creating historical costumes?

On Shaka, I love that every single item on the screen was crafted by my team. Crafters kwaMaimai, beaders kwaMhlanga, artisans in Jozi CBD, crafters in Swaziland, crafters in Dalton, Durban. Nothing was sourced off the rail in a retail store. All is made in Africa by Africans.

I love the research that goes into it. The reading of hard copy historical books, the visits to museums, the fieldwork, and its oral contributors. To witness preservation of culture.

And what do you love about designing modern costumes?

The fact that I get an opportunity to collaborate with local, well-established, and upcoming fashion designers.

What’s your personal style?

I don't see myself as someone who has a style. I just have a different story to tell every single day I step out of the house.

What is going to happen to the Shaka iLembe costumes?

I really don't know. What I do know is that they're costly to preserve. Each piece needs unique love and care. I think they should be on a tour of their own, exhibitioned around the world at every art fair and every heritage commemoration.

Shaka iLembe season 2 is proudly sponsored by headline partner Telkom, associate partners Knorrox, Diageo, and tactical partners Santam, Amka, Toyota, Spur, and Gordon’s Gin.

Watch the legendary rule of King Shaka unfold in Shaka iLembe season 2, on Sundays at 20:00 on Mzansi Magic, DStv channel 161. There are repeats on Fridays at 21:30 and Saturdays at 20:00. Watch season 1 on Showmax or DStv Catch Up. 

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